The Silent War

Officially, 6.7% of Uganda's population are HIV positive, but the truth is that only about 20% of the population has been tested. Also, the number of people testing positive is increasing, and the virus is spreading after an astounding decline which meant Uganda was previously the HIV success story.

Issues of foreign aid and education aside, it's the attitude of some Ugandans towards HIV which is terrifying. In a polygamous culture, the attitude of men towards sex is more than casual with one myth being that 'You are not a man if you do not die of AIDS'. Whereas the fear caused by the initial outbreak and education about HIV caused a change in behaviours, with the widespread availability of ARVs and the many people living into relative old age (their 40s and 50s) with HIV an attitude of nonchalance has emerged. One girl demonstrated the 'live for today' posture by saying 'I'd rather get AIDS than get pregnant'.

With rape, prostitution, and men offering school fees and money for food in exchange for sex, alongside polygamy, adultery and drug use... HIV is again bringing Uganda to its knees.

I was told 'The problem is not education - it is everywhere, on the radio, TV, papers and so on. The problem is ignorance.'

The Key is Education

When I spoke to students in Northern Uganda the girls in particular gave me such hope. To my shame, I was surprised at how 'Western' their thinking was and was impressed at their stance on education and marriage. However, it's worth noting that the students at Ushindi are fee paying and the fact that they are at Secondary School puts them into a particular group of society who are able to think beyond their own village.

I have no lesson to share in this blog post, I simply want to have the following noted.

'Education is a god' I was told more than once. Although the government provide teachers at state schools, education costs. And I mean more than money.

Many girls are promised their school fees from wealthy men in their community. Apparently there was one man who on his death bed confessed that he had infected 50 students at the local school plus at least 50 local women with HIV in exchange for school fees or money for their family. It's unlikely that he paid up in all these cases.

One neighbour shared with me 'If a girl says to her friend, I need money for this or that, her friend will say 'there is a secret, you must get yourself a boyfriend or better a sugar daddy, and you will be happy ... girls share a man who will pay. Three, four maybe ten will have the same sugar daddy.'

Everyone told me that education was the key to ending poverty, and I can't say I realy disagree. But does the price really have to be this high?

An HIV nurse said this 'One girl on the Ssese Islands was raped. She consented but I call it rape - she was 13. The price? A pencil.'

The Things We Put Up With

I have a terrible condition. I can not eat cheese. I'm lactose intolerant.

The thing is, I've always been proud of not being a fussy eater and I resent that I have to ask for special treatment if I am invited for meals, so I tend to stay quiet and enjoy the rare treat (which is certainly not a treat after about an hour). I had a meal with a family and had all three courses all packed with dairy, and I spent the afternoon very very quietly before being able to see straight enough to drive home! I'd much rather not make a fuss, even though it harms me and I'm told that long term it's really not sensible to keep 'cheating'.

The Lugbara people in Uganda have a saying; 'Peace at all costs'. The thought of causing offence is enough for them to never confront or question, and my parents faced this during their time as teachers in Arua. Suggesting improvements, asking why the current systems are in place, questioning statements which are actually wrong... some of the perils of Lugbaran management. And here lies one reason why many of the structures in place have barely changed since their introduction, why interaction with the global community still leaves Uganda on the back foot and why everything happens so very slowly!

This isn't simply a topic relevant to Uganda, I've faced it this week in Nightchurch. The choice is to stay quiet and go with the flow, enjoying the peace but suffering later, or to cause a fuss, risk offence and work to keep healthy.

Easier said than done? I do really like cheese...

The People I Admire

I was able to have some great conversations with students in Uganda, and they had plenty of questions for me too. Music is a huge business in Africa, with the African-American artists dominating the industry. President Obama is the other big celeb for obvious reasons, even in the most remote areas you can find Obama calendars adorning the walls! I had a good think about who I admire, whose calendar I'd want on my wall (I actually have an Exmouth Shanty Men calendar in the downstairs loo, but that's a whole different story).

Having met the Archbishop of Canterbury I have a lot of time for him (I'm sure he'll be pleased to hear that), he has an exceptionally difficult job and a lot of humility.
Oscar Romero whose quotes will most certainly be popping on here in the future was the Archbishop of San Salvador and an outspoken activist before his assassination in March 1980.
I'm a bit of a fan of Steve Chalke having been an Oasis gap year student, but I mostly admire him for shaking up the evangelical church in dramatic fashion, being a risk taker and pioneer. He is now an advisor for the UN on the issue of people trafficking.
I would love to be more like CJ of the West Wing (pictured), she's an amazing package of intelligence, strong femininity and leadership.
Nelson Mandela is a bit obvious but needs to in my list, as does Archbishop Desmond Tutu.

I have met so many incredible people in my travels, Semeda Steves - Christian Aid Staff in Delhi and Kathleen Burns - nurse in Uganda with AIM are two people whose influence will stay with me. And there are many others who have no website and some whose names I never knew who I admire and continue to inspire me.

The Point of Contact

I had no idea how I would cope in Uganda for three weeks with no phone, no internet, no laptop, no TV... I barely noticed the lack of TV (particularly when we had the West Wing and DVD player to keep us going) but I barely watch TV at home so that was fine. I coped fine with pen and paper and even without Facebook.

There was a small desire to tell people about how I was getting on, what I was seeing and doing and my deep and profound thoughts on things, but actually I had a far greater need to hear about how other people were getting on. Before you think I'm heading for sainthood (because I know that's what you were thinking) the true realisation was that I evaluate my own life in the light of others'. And without any familiar reference points, I found that in Uganda I was able to see my world in stark 3D as I scrambled to find some context.

These reference points I find in my relationships at home give an insight to the person I might have been had I made different choices, they provide benchmarks for me to evaluate whether I still want to be where and who I am. They challenge and inspire as well as shine the light on those areas where I still feel I need to make progress. Take that all away... and it's just me, myself and I.

Who are we when we are taken out of our home culture, job, even clothes... yes feel free to roll your eyes with the stench of an identity crisis quickly approaching. I don't think it's a matter of crisis though, more a check up. How often do we get the chance to point a healthy spotlight on ourselves and our choices without the comparison to others or pressure from media and society. In essence, who are we when we have no one to blame but ourselves?

Re-entry

I am back from foreign places in one, rather tired piece.

I'll be uploading some bits and pieces from my trip to Uganda partly to remind me of what I actually did each day, and eventually I'll get some of my more reflective thoughts on here too.

Needless to say I found the whole experience ponder-provoking.

More to come on this and more...

Last bits

... of packing up the house. I didn't pack any of the invading ants. I killed them.

Everybody needs good neighbours

... to tell you what's really going on in their country. Plus I made pancakes for the first time today!

If you want stories

... you just have to listen. I've had the privilege of talking with both students and teachers throughout my trip - and the whole of today in fact.

Yes, I asked about gender equality

It's been refeshing to talk to some of the girls and women about their views on gender, and also to observe myself some of the complex relationships found here.

I am told in no uncertain terms that education is the key, and that women can do as much as men if they work hard. When it comes to marriage, I was surprised to hear the girls (ages 16-19) explain they want to finish their education before finding a husband that will share with them and understand them, and that they would probably wait until their late twenties. I think I may have met some of the new generation of African women, empowered and influenced by the Western world with positive and negative consequences - which they themselves explained to me. We went on to discuss what was hard about living in Uganda - the poverty and corruption and what they would do about it.



Here's hoping I have just met members of the future Ugandan government.

Busy day

... church with the students who'd not yet gone home for the term, and a visit to Mary's house.

Observations of the white girl

My conversations with students have been most enlightening. I've also developed a lilt to my accent which helps them understand my english, but makes me sound utterly ridiculous. However I may try and hold to some of the sayings and unique sentence constructions as I do wonder if a different approach might help me in Cornwall...

I was asked by two students if it was true that 'lazy people in the UK get given money by the government'... and we discussed at length benefits, pensions, tax, the NHS. I've been asking what the students think of the UK, and all I can get from them is that it must be 'very nice' and 'very green'. And their favourite music? By far - Jay Z, Beyonce and Rihanna.

Oops

I told Dad fairly confidently that the bank closed at half 4. He is now sitting next to me (correcting my typos) having missed the bank by 5 minutes. It closed at 4. Oops.

Still, exciting times here...

Oh my, it's hot...

...but we did bring some rain with us during the past two nights which has been much needed. There's been a drought here in Uganda, and the rainy season never really came. So there's a food crisis and prices have shot up. Is the UK still whinging about the credit crunch?

Anyway, all is going well here. My dad and I have got back into the swing of African life pretty quickly and amazingly he remembers some basic Lugbara. We've even been watching West Wing most nights!
If you want to know more of what my parents were doing here have a look at their blog.

We've been in Uganda a week today, I'm currently sitting in an Internet Cafe in Arua, Northern Uganda while dad is at the bank. Most of the students from the secondary school where my parents lived and worked left today, but I managed to have a few good conversations with some of them before they left. I've also had the opportunity to talk with teachers, and with other Brits and missionaries in the area.

I'll stagger my blog entries to avoid waffle. It's worth a try anyway...

p.s. it turns out that, just like my father, I too melt at 27 degrees. This could be interesting...

The longest assembly

... and notice that despite being in 30 degree heat, I still wore black. That's commitment (and stupidity) for you.

Crowned Connect 4 Queen

... as I took on some students during a rare time away from chores and study for them.

Church

.. at the school, they were overwhelmingly welcoming and the singing raised the roof!

Up North

... to Arua where we met the principle and head of governors of my parent's former school at Cathy's. After a short adventure to town and a look at Arua Cathedral (pictured) we drove the claimed car back to Ushindi Secondary and my parent's Ugandan home.

Arrival

... in Entebbe and on to Kampala for a night. We had dinner with the lovely Greg and Karen of AIM at Lyn's flat and I completely melted in the heat. Good start.

Tomorrow, we return to Ushindi ...

Leaving on a jet plane

I'm away to Uganda on Thursday with the father (who art in Essex). I'm not entirely clear what I'll be doing when I'm there, but if the solar panels haven't melted and we find some internet access I'll be sure to post my happenings on here.

Hello to all of you who have chosen to follow my blog, I hope I don't disappoint as we build our relationship together.

See you in Africa ...